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Aconcagua Climb

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Getting to Puente del Inca
After much planning and preparing, Bob and I left for the airport early this morning. While checking in our bags, we learned our plane was being delayed because of bad weather (El Nino) in L.A. The plane finally got to L.A. after circling the airport 4 times. We hurried as fast as possible to the international terminals but we were 5 minutes late. The plane left on time. Most of the other airlines were delayed but we were not. So here we sit in the airport for a day. Our next big chore was what to do with our luggage. Lan Chile would not hold it, so we searched for someone who would. One place charged $10 a bag. Our only other option was to put it in lockers. Now, here we are with this enormous amount of gear and we were going through the security check. The security guy asked, Where are you going with that? I said, we are going to put them in the lockers. You can not fit them in the lockers, no way, claimed the security guy. I went through security to look at the largest lockers. I knew we could jam all 4 bags in 2 lockers. So I went back and reported to Bob, lets do it. All the security people were laughing and shaking their heads. We get to the lockers and it was no problem, they fit with room to spare. After that, we ate at McDonalds and shopped around all the stores here in the international wing. It is now 4 a.m. on Feb 7th. We spent the evening talking and holding our nice spot. It became really busy around 6 p.m. The Friday night crowd came and the airport was packed. We bought dinner at a Chinese fast food place. Once the crowds left around 11:30 we found a place to crash. Now I knew I was in trouble. I was only wearing a t-shirt and they were pumping cool air into the international wing where we were. I was a bit cold before I went to sleep. We found a spot on the floor somewhat protected from the cool breeze. I was doing ok, waking up every hour. Two awakenings ago, I was so cold I had to get up and do pushups. When I awoke this last time I was shivering cold. Imagine that, getting hypothermia in the airport. A bad bivy night to say for sure. Luckily for me, I found a lounge with heat. It is at least 8 degrees warmer here where I am currently. I am very content now. I have left Bob over in the Ice Locker with the rest of the unknowing souls. I just did not want to wake Bob up, so I took my bag and left. I am sure he will wake up soon, find me and my bag gone and figure it out. He is wearing all of his fleece so he may be happy there.
     Well, in the morning I awake rested and ready to go. I found Bob over near McDonalds eating. Around 9:30 a.m. we went to our lockers and pulled out our gear. Next to the lockers was a currency exchange. We bought 100 dollars worth of Chilean money. Now we had 37,000 Chilean pesos. Finally, we brought our luggage to the Lan Chile desk and after a long line, got our tickets. While waiting to board the plane we talked with 2 guys from LA who were doing the Polish Glacier (guided). They had done the West Butt of McKinley so we had a lot to talk about. The Lan Chili flight was very nice. The Boeing 767 was like new and the service was exceptional. The views of the Baja Peninsula were fabulous but when we got near Mexico City the smog was terrible. I barely saw the top of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl before we dropped into the smog line. Another mountain west of Mexico City looked ok. We did not get out at the airport; it was only a 40 minute layover. In the plane during the layover, a guy named Chris talked to us about the climb. He has climbed the South Face and was planning on trying our easier route in one week. The flight from Mexico City to Santiago was in the dark. The flight served lunch, dinner and breakfast as it was 8 hours. We are now 5 hours ahead of Pacific Coast time. When we landed in Santiago, Chris had talked to a guy named Jim. Jim helped us get a bus to downtown Santiago. We paid 15 U.S. dollars for both of us and the gear to the main city bus area (central). The little shuttle car ended up taking the other people in the car to their homes, so we saw a lot of Santiago. We were finally dropped off at the bus station. Bob got the tickets although it was very stressful for him to work with the Spanish. Once we had the tickets we walked outside with our gear, put it into the bus, and it left 2 minutes later. Luckily they were running a bit late and we made it on. There may not have been another today. Now we are in Los Andes. It is a town north of Santiago. We head into the mountains from here (east).
     The road went up into the mountains almost to 12,600 feet. It was very stressful at the first checkpoint near the Chile-Argentina boarder. We had to get out and go into this old building where long lines awaited us. Inside was what looked like people from an old James Bond movie. Most people were from South American countries trying to get into Chile. There were people selling things, kids running around, and noise bouncing from wall to wall. I swear if you said the wrong thing they would hall you off to jail. Finally we got out and then some security officers briefly checked our bus. Soon we crossed into Argentina and it was their turn. Everyone got off the bus and walked into this huge dome building that everyone drives into for the border crossing. The Argentina officials checked our passports and then our bus was checked. Everyone had to get off again for the bus and bag search. Everyone laid their bags on a bag table and opened them. The guard did not even care about most. The second we sat our bags down he said You Guys Can Go. Finally we were done with the border stuff. It was then an easy drive two miles down to Pointe del Inca. Now the best part of the trip was the switchbacks just before the border checkpoints. There were over 30 switchbacks on a paved road, starting at 6500 feet ending at 12,500 feet. The road just went up and over while Mr. Bus driver did not even flinch cornering the turns the way he was. Once at Puente del Inca, I went in search of our mule service. It was not easy but eventually I found Daniel Alessio. He lived in this small shack of a home with his family. He spoke ok English so we were able to make arrangements fairly easily. We paid him for the 2 mules, 6 liters of white gas, and the permissions. His wallet was stocked full of cash. He had many US $100 bills! Daniel Alessio was on his way to Mendoza so he left to get the permissions. We separated our gear and gave our 4 bags for the 2 mules to the muleer. He looked to be about our age but he was this huge guy. We decided to save a few bucks by setting up the tent near Daniels home. Once the tent was up, we went to the town store. I bought a 2 liter of 7-up. It was raining so we got back into the tent. It had been raining off and on since we arrived. We went to sleep around 5:30. Now it is just after 7 a.m. I am not at all tired. There are blue skies above. A rooster about 20 feet away is yapping his morning song.
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Days 1 - 3
Having climbed Mt. McKinley the year before, it was an easy decision to try for South Americas tallest the following year. I was working at REI so it was not hard to rope a few people into the trip. In the end, it was just one friend and I for this adventure. Aconcagua is the tallest mountain in the Western Hemisphere at 22,841 feet. The easiest route up has a trail most of the way so I had no doubts it would go well. Little did we know, it would be an El Nino year making some of the worst weather the mountain had seen in a long time. Below is my journal I wrote each day while climbing the mountain. Everything has been rewritten as wrote originally.
Puente del Inca to Confluencia
Confluencia Camp
Horcones Valley
Plaza de Mulas (Basecamp)
Camp Canada
Camp Nedo de Condores
Camp Berlin and Beyond
food for aconcagua Los Libertadores Los Libertadores Punte del Inca Los Libertadores Hotel Puente del Inca Daniel Alessio Las Cuevas River Hotel Puente del Inca
I have broken this trip into 9 more web pages.
Los Libertadores Punte del Inca Hot springs Las Cuevas River Plaza de Mulas Camp Berlin Camp Canada Confluencia Camp Ponte del Inca Horcones Valley Los Penitentes Camp Nedo
Los Penitentes and Mendoza
(The Trailhead, Elevation: 9,678 feet)
Daniel Alessio
This was the food I brought on the trip.
Old church at Punte del Inca
The Natural Bridge and the ruins of the 1925 Hotel Puente del Inca.
Las Cuevas River running under the natural bridge.
Under the bridge.
Hot springs coming out from under the bridge.
Camping at the home of Daniel Alessio who arranged our mule service.
Some of the 28 switchbacks on the international mountain pass called Los Libertadores.
Highway above with snowsheds.
On the highway looking toward the pass.
Leaving Santiago headed to the mountains.
Las Cuevas River running under the natural bridge.
hotel
Abandoned Hotel Puente del Inca.
aconcagua map
Route we took with an arrival in Santiago, Chile and bus up to Puente del Inca on the highway near the crest. After the climb, we changed plans and went East to Mendoza, Argentina.
Switchbacks
Switchbacks on the highway in route.
Day 4 Morning:
After awakening to the rooster I got up and went over to the natural bridge. The river went underneath and so did the ruins. What was totally cool was the hot springs in the old resort (ruins). There were at least 10 private rooms with hot baths (pools) in them. I can not give the attraction justice in words but the pictures will speak for themselves.