Aconcagua Climbing

Here at Confluencia, no hot dogs but I did get a coke! This morning was mellow, just slowly got up and packed. Once all was ready we headed over to Andes Sport to put our duffels. We paid the $120 for a mule to carry 135 lbs. Our packs were still around 30 lbs. We gabbed a bit but finally we were off. It began snowing as we left. Down at Old Plaza de Mulas we took some pictures and Boyd caught up. Soon we were down to the easy stuff. It was snowing very hard but not warm enough to stick. The last several miles were just Boyd and I about a mile ahead. Our gear passed us when we crossed the creek. The trail dropping into Confluencia camp was tough on the feet. In camp I set up the tent and threw gear inside, it was now raining. I followed Boyd over to the Coca-cola tent where we got a coke. We chatted with 2 guys who spoke little English. The fun did not last long so we went back to our tents when Bob and Rob arrived. Colleen arrived shortly after. Bob heated some water and we ate our last freeze dried food of the trip. Now it is after dinner, the keewees are trying to get all our food, and soon it will be dark. I will read a bit and then go to bed. Only 2 hours out tomorrow.

Today we awoke to sunshine and warmth, a fitting end to our journey. When I got out of the tent Bob was climbing a nearby hillside to get a picture of the south face. After some food I did the same. After that, it was back a bit, relax and pack some more. I took off first so I could hike at my own pace the way back. The views were nice going down the valley. It got windy, clouds did come in and the mountain was once again un-climbable. Finally I reached the trailhead and ranger station. The tourists on the trail were the best sign the end was near. Boyd was inside the sign-out hut and we waited for the rest. When they arrived the rangers called for our Andes Sport ride. Our permits were with the rangers, we never had them. We were free to go and after some photos, the truck arrived. The 5 of us jumped in back with our gear and we drove away.

We definitely sleped in today, getting up around 11 o clock. The weather was not too bad so we had high hopes for Boyd and Nile. We slowly packed up. Our bodies had been through too much. I was very excited to get to a lower elevation and not feel like the energizer bunny on dead batteries. We descended from Berlin to Nido camp (19,500 to 17,800). I already noticed a difference and smelled the food at Base Camp. I had a lot of food and gear stashed at Nido so I added about 20 pounds to my pack. It was probably near 70 lbs. I had a duffle tied to the back of my pack for there was no room in my pack. Slowly I dropped down the trail of snow, rock and gravel toward base. I was very careful not to injure myself. Near 16,000 feet I felt I had all the air in the world. When I reached 14,000 feet I rarely needed to breathe at all. I stopped several times coming down. My legs were very tired from the heavy pack and tricky terrain. It was so nice to reach Base Camp. I knew all the pain was over. It also made it nice to have Rob and Colleen there to greet me. Base is dead, everyone is gone. Most of the guide services are leaving. I chatted with Rob until Bob got down. I set up the tent and threw in the gear as it really began snowing. The weather had deteriorated slowly as it had yesterday on our summit attempt. We wondered if Boyd and Nile had made it up. If they started early enough maybe! After the tent was up, we went down to the keewees nice base tent provided by their mule guide service. Mostly just talked, drank hot cocoa, and waited for the dinner at the hotel at 8 p.m. We got to know a guy named George. He is from Colorado and is on a 7 summits quest. This was his 2nd try of Aconcagua. He did not even go above Nido this time. We also got to know Patty. She is deaf and totally sponsored by The North Face. If she summits she will be the first deaf person to summit. She is going try but it does not look good for her. Now around 6 p.m. Boyd comes into Base Camp. Bob and I just jerking him for questions. Turns out they did not get off until about 8 a.m. They were very slow because of the lack of O2. Boyds feet were very cold. They got up to the base of the Canaleta but the weather was extremely bad. Both wasted, Boyd turned around knowing what was ahead. Nile followed and they both made good time back to Berlin, then Nido. They packed up and headed for base. Boyd got down around 6, while Nile being totally wiped made it down around 7. It was around 7 p.m when the action began. Rob had told us of the buying frenzy that had been going on but we got it started again. All the mulers and friends like to buy stuff from climbers because they cannot get it. They just start pointing and saying how much. I think they were just all paid so they are ready to buy. I guess yesterday another big American expedition left without any gear. Someone had bought my VE-25 tent for $700. I was willing to sell almost anything except my sleeping bag, jacket and bibs. I sold my stove, stove holder, ice Axe, fleece shirt, water bottle parka all for around $250. I made a little money from it but mainly when I replace my stove it will be new, same for the ice axe. Nile had returned during the buying frenzy. He just watched in a stupor. After the sale, which may continue tomorrow with my therma- rest, gloves and cheap camera, we went to dinner. Now when I say go to dinner, I mean go to dinner. I have not eaten anything good in so long. We hiked over to the hotel where they serve dinner at 8 p.m. for $15. The eight of us (Boyd, Rob, Colleen, George, Patty, Nile, Bob and I) were the only ones there for dinner. We were fed a soup, bread, crackers, steak, salad and mashed potatoes. Now let me say that few meals have ever tasted so good. I was so hungry from being so high and underfed. I loved it so much. All the orange juice you could drink. I was almost full but both Boyd and I ordered another steak sandwich. I barely finished the thing. I was so stuffed it hurt, but I was so happy. We just told war stories around the table as we ate and digested. Here we sat, with electricity in the highest hotel on earth. It was such a great experience. During the day we worked out the rest of our trip. We were going to hike out with the keewees. We are using their mule service out. Once at the trailhead we get picked up by a truck, get our gear and drive down to Los Penitentes. There we have a hotel room with shower and 2 meals. The next day we have a bus into Mendoza. There we will hang for a day or two. The big Argentina-Mendoza Wine Festival begins, tomorrow and goes 2-3 weeks. We will have a blast we are told. We mainly just want to eat fruit, steak, and shop for crap. After dinner, we had to hike the half mile back to camp. This was an experience. It was pitch black with fog. Everyone followed each other and at times you wondered if you were on the trail. The terrain was like the moon. At one point we all came up to a light. Some guy was lost in the terrain. He kept his cool but you could tell he was glad to be with so many people after being alone in the dark. Soon we were back in camp. Bob went to sleep but I wanted to organize my stuff some. Then I decided I better write the past two days in my journal before I forgot. I have probably been writing 1-2 hours but I do not ever know since my watch is never worn. I know I had to replace my batteries. It has also been snowing for about an hour. Tomorrow we hike down to Confluencia. It should be fun and easy. Hopefully they are still selling hot dogs.

Aconcagua Climb (page 3 of 3)