The Purcell Mountains

This park features a series of massive granite spires that protrude out of a vast glacial icefield. The 'Bugs' as they are affectionately called are legendary among climbers. "From the parking lot, the Conrad Kain Hut is visible as a little teal speck just below aptly named Snowpatch Spire. It may look distant, but it's only 3 miles away. The first mile is on level trail so with very little effort you can reach a rockpile with unobstructed views of the glacier. The next mile climbs gradually passing a big waterfall on the way to a spectacular vista from atop a moraine. The trail gains most of the elevation right at the very end however fixed cables, and in one spot, a ladder, are there to assist you. The hut itself sleeps about 50 people, and is open to the public." (To Hut: 6 miles return, 2,165 foot gain).

On the view from the ridge: "It was 360 degrees of awesomeness, although we would argue that (the lake) was further than (the stated)1.5 miles away!" Nearby Chalice Ridge, is a stellar larch hike that is just outside the park boundary.

The hike to Thunderwater Lake is reached by the rapidly deteriorating Forster Creek Road. Despite the modest stats, route finding over rough terrain makes it a challenging day hike.

The trail follows aptly named Hell Roaring Creek, which literally propels itself away from the lake in a series of violent cascades. After crossing on a seasonal bridge, the trail climbs up to an open meadow and the established camping area. The lake is still a mile away however due to the the steep walls of the cirque it is not practical to camp any closer. The trail is eventually swallowed up in a broad rocky delta at the lake's outlet.

Most people turn around here but you cannot fully appreciate the wonder of this place unless you climb up to the bare ridge on the right side of the lake. There is not a trail so if you are willing to scramble 1000ft up through sub alpine forest you can likely have this vantage to yourself. Just remember that the terrain gets steeper as you approach the lake, angle away from it and the grade will be easier.

On the Western slopes of the Purcell Mountains, directly opposite from Lake of the Hanging Glacier is a cluster of great day hikes accessed of Glacier Creek Road. This road has had some issues in the past but as of 2011 it was in fine shape all the way to the Jumbo Pass trailhead. Jumbo Pass has both beautiful meadows and expansive views with peaks and glaciers in every direction. It is also the sight of a proposed ski resort.

Monica Meadows is a beautiful open meadow blessed with golden larches and backed by a breathtaking panoramic view of the grand Horseshoe Glacier and the many glaciers in the MacBeth group.

There are two routes into Dunbar Lakes basin, we skipped Tiger Pass as it required glacier travel, and approached from Templeton Lake, but do not bring a nice vehicle here, the road is significantly overgrown. The way to Templeton Lake was straight forward, but progress along the talus fields very slow. When we reached the lake my jaw dropped. I had no idea this little lake was so pretty! It was a destination in itself. We debated the best route to take up towards the pass right up until we were on the slopes. The choices were up, or straight up. We decided up, then at the last second veered straight up. At any other time it probably would have been the best decision, however the inch or so of snow on the ground made the steep heather slopes slick as snot. There was lots of veggie belaying going on and also lots of swearing.

The Purcells run along the western shore of Kootenay Lake and feature world class scenery. However long and difficult approach roads turn even simple day hikes into multi-day expeditions. Also users have to deal with primitive trails as well. Creeks are not bridged and some route finding is to be expected. The conditions are a little better in the Provincial Parks, roads are usually signed, and trails are somewhat easier to follow.

The Purcell Mountains

Signs were posted everywhere warning expert hikers only. This hike is a great mental and physical challenge. The high brush in grizzly territory will ensure you keep your wits about you and give you a heightened sense of excitement. You will keep your mind busy looking for cairns and flags, a real live game of search and find.

Bugaboo Provincial Park