Mount Shasta - Avalanche Gulch Route

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One of the most popular climbing destinations in California is Mt. Shasta. The majority of climbers use the standard Avalanche Gulch route. To climb this route, there is no need for extra climbing gear you might have on glaciated peaks, just an ice axe and crampons are all that is needed. You will see just about every type of novice climber on this route so it is known for having accidents.
California Hiking
Summit Elevation: 14,162 feet
Distance: 5.5 miles
Elevation Gain: 7,300 feet on return
Access: Paved
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Access
From the town of Mt. Shasta, get on the Everitt Memorial Highway and follow it to the Bunny Flat Trailhead. The trailhead is so close to town, you could almost order a Pizza. Camping is allowed at the trailhead.
Route
Take the trail 1.7 miles to Horse Camp. Here there is a shelter and a natural spring with water that needs no filter. This is treeline with many campsites scattered around at an elevation of 7,900 feet. Strong climbers can summit from this location without having to haul camping gear up to a higher camp. To continue, follow the trail or snow trail up into Avalanche Gulch. The route is obvious, just follow the wide gulch. At around 9,400 feet pass by 50/50 flat camp, a location used by the guide service to keep out of the way. At 10,400 feet reach Lake Helen, the main base camp for most. The lake doesn't melt out until mid-summer so expect to melt snow. From this point, you are getting closer to the headwall and rockfall potential is possible, put the helmet on. The gulch starts getting steeper until finally you are ascending the headwall up toward Thumb Rock and Red Banks. Once through the Red Banks, you crest what appeared as the ridge but the slope continues up to the base of Misery Hill. If your route climbed to Thumb Rock, you might actually walk the ridge but most will go well left of Thumb Rock. After the trudge up Misery Hill, there is some short ridge walking, then a final climb the summit block.
Permits
Permits are self-serve pay at the trailhead.
Ultra 57 List
Alpine Lodge mt shasta map mount shasta Helen Lake Misery Hill Mount Shasta shasta climb summit avalanche gulch Horse Camp shasta summit shasta summit summit Bunny Flat mount shasta mt shasta Red Banks Tree red banks
route
Route from top of Misery Hill to the summit
Route from Lake Helen to Red Banks
Mount Shasta from I-5
The mountain from Bunny Flat Trailhead
Shasta Alpine Lodge
Camping at Horse Camp
Rest stop
Climbing up to the Red Banks
Climbing up to the Red Banks
Misery Hill
TyeDye Twin Troy on the summit
Tree line
Route up from the Helen Lake area
Helen Lake Camp
Just above Misery Hill
Traverse over to the summit
Views from the summit